I've often been asked, "Hey, Oldsmagnet, is there anything that can be done about this flimsy rearend in my G-body?"
     Well, yes, there is.  Step one, get rid of it.  Step 2, replace it.  Here's one way.

     The mid 80's Olds (Actually BOP) rearends are different than the ch*vy rearends, you can swap in
     an axle out of a MCSS, but you won't be able to use individual parts.  A more abundant option is
     the 68-72 A-body cars, Cutlass/442, Skylark/GS/GSX, Lemans/Tempest/GTO, and the, uhh...
     chevelle.  Many of these came with the locking rearends (Anti-spin, Anti-slip, posi, call it what you
     will) and they are in fair supply in junkyards nationwide.

     These axles are physically different, although they are of the same style and design.  Both utilize
     the 4 link coil spring suspension.  The A-body axle is about an inch or 1.5 inches wider than the
     G-body's.  The control arms are subsequently farther apart.  The coil spring mounting bosses are
     offset about 1/2 inch between the axles, and the shock mounts are of different angles.

     South Side Machine makes an adaptor kit that incorporates their Lift Bars.  Summit Racing
     carries these (that's where mine came from) and they may be available from other sources as
     well.  I paid about $350 for mine.

     The kit includes the two upper and two lower control arms, fully boxed and bearing pivoted for
     solid mounting and no flexing.  They provide two spring bosses and instructions to cut off original,
     and weld the new ones on with a 1/2" offset.  Also comes with shock mounting studs, to weld on
     at the corrected angles.

     The driveshaft/u-joint coupling may need to be modified/fabricated.
     The kit assumes a complete hub-to-hub swap, and does not come with any brake apparatus,
     such as e-brake cable couplers, etc.
     There are no sway bar provisions, but with the bearing pivots, the sway bar is unnecessary.
     With the wider stance, some offset rims will not fit inside the quarter panels.
     The kit provides instructions for setting up pinion angles.  You'll need an inclinometer to fine tune  that angle.
     The instructions direct you to weld in place, once you have the desired angle setup.  However,
     there's ample room to drill multiple holes for lockbolts, to allow setting for multiple angles, i.e. highway vs. launching.